Soak the glass noodles in warm water until soft, drain well and snip into shorter, easy-to-eat lengths. Toss with soy sauce, soy-sauce paste, mirin, sesame oil and a pinch of white pepper, then set aside — this Shanghai-style pre-marinate colours each strand and keeps them from clumping when stir-fried.

Thaw the frozen tofu, squeeze out excess water and tear it into small bits — the spongy texture shreds almost exactly like cooked mince. Press the firm tofu to remove water, then crumble small. Squeeze the frozen tofu really dry so it crisps up.

Squeeze the rehydrated shiitake dry and mince finely, reserving the soaking water. Mince the ginger, slice the dried chilies, and chop the cilantro.

Heat oil in a wok over medium-high heat. Crumble the firm tofu directly into the pan, then add the torn frozen tofu. Fry, stirring constantly for even colour, until everything is golden and crisp — be patient. The tofu shrinks as its water cooks off, so don't worry if it looks like a lot at first.

Add the minced shiitake and ginger and fry until golden and fragrant. Add the pre-seasoned noodles and stir to coat evenly. Pour in the reserved mushroom water plus a splash of fresh water so the noodles can simmer and absorb the saucy liquid.

Stir until the liquid is absorbed and the noodles are glossy and tender — they soften quickly since they were pre-soaked. Fold in the sliced chilies and chopped cilantro, give one last toss, and serve hot over rice, greens, or straight into a lunchbox.