Pull the head apart leaf by leaf and rinse three times, since the thick stems hold grit. Line the stems up and cut into short 4-5 cm segments, then keep the thick stems and the leafy tops in two separate piles - the stems need a head start in the wok.

Rinse the shiitake well to remove wood-chip debris, trim the stems and cut the caps into thin strips. Slice the dried tofu into 3 mm rectangles and measure out the salt, white pepper and 50 cc of water so everything is ready before the wok gets hot.

Heat the oil in a wok over medium heat and add the shiitake strips. Pan-fry, stirring occasionally, until the mushrooms shrink down and turn golden around the edges - this is the entire aroma of the dish forming, standing in for garlic and scallion in an allium-free kitchen.

Push the mushrooms to one side and slide the tofu slices into the oil. Let them fry undisturbed until the undersides turn golden, flip, and fry the other side. Once both faces are gold, toss everything together.

Add the nai bai stems to the wok and toss to soften for about 30 seconds. When the stems are roughly half-cooked, add the leafy tops and toss quickly - they only need a moment.

Sprinkle in 1 tsp salt and 1/4 tsp white pepper, then pour the 50 cc of water down the side of the wok. Toss fast and let it bubble for another 30-60 seconds so the flavors merge and the stems go properly tender, then plate immediately.