Cut one corner of the tofu package and drain the water, then pat the block completely dry with paper towels. Cut in half crosswise, then slice into thin pieces about 1/2 cm thick.

Warm 2-3 tbsp of high smoke point oil in a wide pan. Heat until it just starts to smoke, then turn off the heat and let it settle 1-2 minutes (about 350F). Lay tofu slices in one at a time and fry over medium-high heat until deep golden brown on both sides, rotating pieces for even color. Transfer to a plate.

Combine minced garlic, ginger, green onion, chopped Thai chilies and chili flakes in a heatproof bowl. Reheat leftover frying oil until shimmering and pour it over the aromatics so they sizzle. Add soy sauce, sugar, sesame oil and a pinch of salt, then stir in most of the cilantro.

Spoon the hot sauce over the crispy tofu slices. Scatter remaining cilantro on top and serve immediately with steamed rice.