Scoop out the seeds — no need to peel the baby kabocha. Cut into large chunks so they hold their shape during the simmer. One whole baby kabocha is roughly the right amount for a family of four.

Cut the enoki into three equal sections and gently pull the strands apart so they don't clump. Rinse the shiitake quickly and slice into fairly thick strips. Shredding the enoki lets it release its sweetness into the broth.

Heat a little oil in a deep pot suitable for braising. Add the shiitake and fry until golden and aromatic. This browning step is what makes the final broth taste rich rather than flat.

Add the pumpkin and enoki to the pot. Stir and pan-fry for about one minute, until the enoki softens and the vegetables take on a little color.

Add the haishan sauce, vegan oyster sauce, soy sauce and white pepper. Stir so the seasonings coat the vegetables evenly — frying the sauce briefly wakes up its aroma. Pour in hot water until it just covers the pumpkin.

Cover the pot, reduce to medium-low heat, and simmer for about 15 minutes. The pumpkin is done when tender, deeply golden, and soaked with the seasoned broth. Serve straight from the pot — the golden liquid is delicious ladled over rice.