Trim the spongy white pith from the bitter melon, seed it, and slice. Peel the sweet potato and cut into bite-size chunks. Tear the gluten puffs into pieces, rinse well, then squeeze dry; freeze the remaining half pack for another meal.

Heat oil in a wok over medium heat, add the gluten puffs, and fry about 1 minute per side until golden brown all over. Set aside — this crisp shell keeps them from turning mushy in the braise.

Clean the wok, heat fresh oil, and sear the sweet potato chunks about 1 minute per side until the edges just colour. Add the bitter melon and fry together for about 1 minute.

Pour in hot water to just below the level of the ingredients and return the fried gluten puffs. Stir in 1 tablespoon of Thai bean paste and 1 teaspoon of sugar — hold off on salt, the bean paste is very salty. Cover and braise over medium heat about 5 minutes, then taste and adjust.

When the sweet potato is soft and the flavours have married, stir in a cornstarch slurry and simmer until the sauce turns glossy. Season with salt only if needed, and serve hot over steamed rice.